November 27, 2009

Thai Surprise

I didn’t intend on making my way up to South East Asia on this trip. I had been invited to join friends on a trek through Cambodia months ago but didn’t feel ready then and was more curious about Australia and New Zealand at the time. But while in New Zealand, a couple of new friends from Ireland were talking about their plans on heading to Thailand and its neighboring countries. My curiosity was peaked. So after a little research, I booked a flight to Bangkok with a stopover in Singapore to meet up with Mary and Clare.

I arrived in Singapore and checked into a hostel in Little India for a couple of nights which, despite the deplorable condition of our 28 bed dorm, made me feel quite at home because I was surrounded by the Indian culture that I just adore. Singapore was an even bigger turnoff the second time around. The girls and I literally could not wait to get to the airport (which is just about the only reason to stop there).

As soon as we arrived at the Bangkok Airways gate, I cosmically sat down next to a Buddhist monk dressed in a golden robe and a new level of excitement and anticipation leapt into my chest. His kind spirit and compassionate nature confirmed that I had made the right choice yet again and I knew that I was exactly where I belonged. He and I sat and discussed meditation, the importance of living in the moment and the value of being mindful of every infinitesimal act. During that hour, I was reminded of so much that I have learned over the past 8 months and so much that I tend to forget in the twinkling of an eye.

Arriving into Bangkok was nowhere near as hectic as I expected, India has prepared me for the absolute worst of transportation nightmares, so being hassled by cab drivers barely sparks an iota of anxiety anymore (until you feel as though you are being conned or ripped off which can get my nostrils flaring). We arrived at our guest house, The Wild Orchid Villa, at around 1 am, checked out the $3 a night rooms that we had reserved, decided we were not up for the window-less and stifling rooms and upgraded to the $10 a night option instead which felt like an upscale accommodation dream.

The next morning we woke up and began to explore the surrounding area. Bangkok is chaotic, but not unbearable. I actually love the madness of the “tuk tuk” versus motorbike traffic and the swarms of diverse tourists who roam the streets. There is a beautiful medley of eccentric hippies with dreadlocks and tattoos and more “upscale” looking travelers who blend in with the Thai shopkeepers, drug pushers and “lady boys”. Having only a few days there before heading up North, we indulged in some very affordable shopping, delicious food and of course the ever so blissful Thai massage outrageously (but gratefully) priced at $4 for an hour of perfect relaxation. That evening we met up with a British couple, Jamie and Anne, that the girls met while traveling in Australia and whom were planning on passing through the same areas that we were. Suddenly, our little family went from 3 to 5.

The following day, we all made our way back to the airport and boarded a flight up to Chiang Mai in Northern Thailand. After settling into our $3 a night “guest house” with it’s oh so suitable wood like mattresses we made our way over to the infamous night market and were dazzled by the eclectic goods and unique local artwork.

After a fairly uncomfortable night’s sleep, we woke up and began to visit some of the temples that the area is so well known for. I had read about something called “monk chats” at a temple called Wat Suan Dok which was supposed to be particularly beautiful at sunset. When we arrived, we were amazed by the beauty of the temple with its golden façade, gigantic Buddha statues and dozens of monks dressed in their orange robes; some mowing the lawn while others played games with the several stray dogs that have comfortably made the monastery their home.

I inquired about the “monk chats” and we were escorted into a modest room which is set up like a classroom. Clare, Mary and I were sat down at a table on one side. Two monks sat across from us and informed us that we were welcome to ask them absolutely anything about their traditions, Buddhism, the temples, etc. We were assured that no question was too outrageous and that they are open to all inquiries. My mind began to flurry with queries and the questions began to pour out.

I have read quite a bit about Buddhism and although I don’t consider myself religious per sea, I really respect the Buddhist belief system and think there is so much to learn from it. I love the idea that Enlightenment is an inner journey, not something you can search for outwardly. I also strongly agree with the importance of taking responsibility for ones actions. I could have sat and talked with them for hours. Just being in their presence gave me hope and made me appreciate this experience that much more. We left the temple feeling humble and grateful.

The next morning we jumped in a tuk tuk and set out on a two day trek into the jungle, an activity that Chiang Mai is renowned for. Our adventure began with an elephant ride through the forest and into a river; this was followed by a 4 hour uphill hike to a remote village in the mountains, after a quick swim in a gorgeous waterfall. Our guides were a comical duo named Mr. K and Tony who impressively walked in simple flip flops and sang ironic versions of western songs the whole way.

Our campsite in the village consisted of a wood hut with a very long communal dining table, makeshift rooms made of old molded mattresses and mosquito netting and the dingiest bathroom that I have come across to date but the exquisite view of green and yellow tiered pastures made up for our modest surroundings. Mr. K and Tony prepared a delicious meal over a fire pit, whiskey and beer began to flow and the next thing we knew, our group of 15 became a giddy impromptu family. A group of children from the village came down and serenaded us with beautiful local songs and we did our best to sing back to them very ineffectively. My face hurt from smiling so hard. That was the moment that I fell in love with Thailand.

The next day we made the trek down the mountain, passing through more local villages, awed by their humble lifestyle and finished the day by climbing onto rafts made of bamboo poles and floating down a river. When we arrived back in to Chiang Mai, I treated myself to another Thai massage and mentally prepared for the 2 day slow boat ride to Laos that we had scheduled for the following day.

Although Thailand was never a country that I ever really dreamed about traveling to, I am so glad I did. The locals are kind and friendly and exploring their beautiful country is easy and virtually hassle free. The Thai people have taught me to laugh louder, live bigger and to love more. I look forward to returning to the South after Vietnam and cannot wait to go back and really saturate myself in the Thai culture and lifestyle.

Love and Light from South East Asia.
xoxo